Victorian French Navette Ring: Marquise Perpignan Garnet, Rosecut Diamond Halo, 18K Gold

The navette shape has French origins going back to the 18th century court, where elongated forms were fashionable among the aristocracy. The name means little boat. By the Victorian era the shape had become the language of sentiment: jewellery in this period was not decorative so much as communicative. Stones were chosen for what they meant. Garnets stood for deep affection and enduring attachment, and they were given between people who intended to be remembered.

This ring was made in France at a moment when that tradition was at its most refined. The rosecut diamonds predate the brilliant cut that would eventually replace them, and they behave differently in light, glowing softly rather than flashing. Against the dark red of the garnet, the effect is intimate. Someone wore this ring and meant something by it.